Many people, who begin with 3D press, often limit themselves to printing models downloaded from PrusaPrinters and other sites like Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory. There is nil incorrect with that, of course, but the 3D printing options are way wider than that. One time you get into the secrets of creating your own models, you volition detect a whole new world.

Before you start exploring avant-garde 3D modeling programs (nosotros recommend, for instance, Fusion 360, Blender, SketchUp or Rhino), you can also enjoy making your own models in an easier way. How about press a pendant using your favorite sports team's logo, impress an paradigm fatigued by your child or turning your family photo into a lithophane? There are several ways to attain these task and I volition evidence you two basic ones. Both employ applications that are complimentary to use.

3D model from a 2D image

Non every picture makes a squeamish 3D print, but if you cull well, you can be pleasantly surprised. In general, the less complex a picture is, the amend is the resulting model. It is important that the source epitome has clearly separated colors, and that the transition between them is conspicuously divers and non gradual. If the image contains tiny details, you tin amend the impress quality by using a smaller 0.25mm diameter nozzle. You can read everything about nozzles with a different diameter in our previous article. Here are two examples of images we've been converting for 3D printing.

First, we browse the image. I guess there is no demand to mention that higher DPI is better. For best results, "make clean" the scanned epitome in any graphics editor – focus on cleaning the backgrounds and achieving clear color transitions. And then just open the Selva tool in the browser.

  1. In the program window, click Upload paradigm and upload the image you want to work with.
  2. The image has been uploaded, and you can modify it using the two sliders called Threshold (Edit Layer Width) and Height. Tweak these values to achieve the desired await.
  3. Then save the image, so it tin can be further edited, using the Download a Standard Quality STL for free button. Of class, you can as well use the paid version and download a file in "High quality" at $ 2.5. The paid version allows y'all to export the file at a college resolution – this tin can be useful if your picture has fine lines. However, for the vast majority of objects, standard quality volition be sufficient.

We will open the saved file in Tinkercad online app. You also demand to sign up for free hither in guild to edit the objects.

  1. Afterwards logging into Tinkercad, we can outset uploading a file by creating a new projection, using the "Create new design"
  2. Then, on the desktop, use the "Import" button to select the file to exist edited and ostend the selection by pressing "Choose file".
  3. In one case nosotros have the file yous selected, we check its size. Size tin be further tweaked by changing the number in the "Calibration" field. We will modify the calibration to 500 for our logo.
  4. One time you have an object imported, you can immediately export it every bit a .stl file and then print it, or utilise the various Tinkercad features to modify the file to meet your requirements. For example, we added a pad under the object and a loop to create a central tag.
  5. To make a keychain from a logo, add together objects from the right side bill of fare, specifically the square and the hoop, to the workspace. These objects can be edited using white markings on the edges. We stretched the square across the logo area and shrunk it to make the logo visible. Then we created the key strap past moving a resized hoop to the pendant and so that simply the half of the object is visible.
  6. So, we converted the modified file into the .stl format ready for slicing using the "Export" button.

The model is almost prepare for 3D press. We will open up this file in PrusaSlicer and then just adjust its size (or add a brim and support if needed). You tin can likewise effort to use Colorprint to prepare multi-color object. Then y'all tin can finally print the model.

Photos and lithophane

Another possibility to convert 2D images to 3D printing is lithophane, sometimes called 3D Photograph Print. Lithophane (from French: lithophanie) is an etched or shaped work of art fabricated of a very thin translucent porcelain. The actual image can only be seen clearly when it is illuminated by a backlight. Lithophane represents a iii-dimensional image – completely different from two-dimensional engravings and daguerreotypes that are "apartment". Images change their characteristics depending on the lite source behind them.

What practise you lot need to practise? Just take hold of a photograph or any other picture! Knowledge of 3D software is not needed at all. Creating an STL file can exist done with an online app available at http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/.

  1. In the tiptop bar, click on "Images" and drag the selected photo into the window. We recommend uploading photos with a lower resolution – for case, 500×500. This resolution is sufficient to create a skillful looking model and the calculation takes much less fourth dimension.
  2. After uploading an image, a 3D model should exist automatically generated. The terminal button in the top bar is "Settings" where y'all tin change the model generation settings. To explain the very basics: Under "Settings / Image settings", is the source paradigm editing. The first slider is besides the most important 1 – Positive Paradigm / Negative Image. Generating a 3D model is based on the principle that each point/pixel is assigned a height coordinate co-ordinate to the black color amount (blackness color = 0, white colour = i). In order for the resulting 3D photo to match the original template, we need to convert the prototype into a negative – you tin can do that with the start slider.
  3. We also recommend setting "THINNEST LAYER (MM)" in "Settings / Model settings" to 0.four. Leave the other settings untouched.
  4. As soon as we take this model ready, download it using the "Download" button.
  5. Then, open the file in PrusaSlicer. Later opening the file, we recommend switching the layer height to 0.10mm. From our experience, it is meliorate to impress the object apartment on the impress bed to prevent any kind of wobble that could happen if you lot printed the object vertically. You lot can also use a 0.05mm setting with a 0.25mm nozzle to attain the best possible print quality.
  6. And so go to "Print settings" and set "Layers and perimeters" values as follows: Perimeters: 1; Solid layers Summit: 1; Solid layers Bottom: 1
  7. Next step is going to "Infill" where nosotros set the value to 95% Rectilinear
  8. Information technology is of import not to resize the object in PrusaSlicer considering that would increment its height on the Z centrality and the flow of light through the image would no longer work. You can just change the Y and Ten axes.

This is our tried and tested setup. For the best print results, nosotros recommend selecting a light material color, ideally white, flossy but also silver or even purple. However, the quality of the printed object will ever depend on the filament manufacturer, since not every filament volition be translucent and not every filament will give y'all the perfect lithophane upshot, but feel free to experiment… 🙂

If you already accept experience with lithophane printing, you can meliorate it farther by coloring it. Just add colors (eastward.g. with mutual markers) to the dorsum and the picture will shine with prissy new colors. We are working on a separate article well-nigh this topic, so stay tuned. 🙂